Assimilation

The last few days have been interesting to say the least. As I anticipated, there is an interesting re-acclamation process happening with me. My body no longer expects to be on the move every day (although it is showing its anger by feeling sore), but my mind, on the other hand, still has no idea what is happening. I am constantly torn between a desire to continue to write about the trip and get to work on getting it published, and the my need to get a little bit of paid work so I can make rent. Then, there is an overwhelming desire to spend every moment I can with Mandy. The good news is that a client emailed me on Wednesday to say they had some more work for me. It seems the Dude is still looking after me even now that I am back amongst the non-nomadic.

Going back to my normal meetings has been a great treat. Tuesday we went to my home group, Wicked Sobah, and the welcome was unbelievable. People had missed me while I was gone, and that's a little hard for me to believe. I am, however, trying very hard to trust that what people say is the truth (otherwise I am left to a mind filled with worry and fear…yuck!). Several people said that they had been reading the blog regularly, and felt like they were with me along the way. I'm not sure if that was the effect I was going for, but then again, I'm not sure I know what effect I was going for, I just knew I had to write it. I can tell you this, though, it feels great to have people I know and respect be interested in what I've done, especially because I still feel like the goofy kid on the outside looking in sometimes. Thanks, everyone!

The really fantastic part about being home has definitely been being with Mandy every day. Waking up next to her is easily one of my favorite things in the world. We have been spending a lot of time together just laughing and enjoying each other, and on top of that we've been talking a bit about the wedding. I had no idea that I would be so excited about my wedding, and I feel blessed that Mandy is just as excited, if not more. It's going to be great!

When Mandy and I first got together I talked to her a lot about wanting to watch her paint, and it wasn't until this week that I finally had the chance. It's almost like I felt like an intruder if I watched before, but now it seems safe, and it was more wonderful than I could have imagined. For me there is something magical about watching someone else create something, and with Mandy it's even more special because I love her so much that watching her transports me somewhere else, and I feel a part of it. Here's a little taste of what I got to see:

And that ring looks right at home doesn't it?

There was also a moment where I was almost in tears because it reminded me of what a luck guy I am, and how much I miss my mom. Those of you who knew her will understand why seeing this made me lose it:

Being home still feels far from 100% right, but it's getting a little closer every day. I am starting to feel like I belong here again and my mind is beginning to settle a bit. And I have to say that it's really great to sleep in my own bed and really feel at home every night. The meetings along the way always felt a little bit like home, but there was still a sort of underlying feeling that I was not at home…because I wasn't. I always slept wherever I was, and I never felt tremendously homesick, but I learned that, for me, home is where my people are. I found some wonderful places and some truly beautiful people along the way, but now that I am home I know, more certainly than ever, that this is my place - that the people here are my family and that the cool, cloudy Seattle weather is where I am meant to be.

Body In One Place, Mind In Another

My first day home was more than strange. I woke up startled to be in my own house and more startled by the fact that I didn't need to repack the bike and move on to the next place. I had not really considered how it was going to feel to be home and do things like drink coffee from my favorite mug and sit on the porch and read the daily meditations with Mandy again. Then to be able to walk to the fridge and get a cup of yogurt to eat and not have to pay anyone for it or worry about what someone might think even if they did say, "Help yourself to anything in the fridge." There is a tremendous freedom in being home that I had taken for granted until I didn't have it for two months.

Shortly after waking up my mind was spinning. One minute I was drifting off thinking about all the experiences of the trip and how wonderful it had been, and the next minute I was in a panic about money and what I was going to do now that I was back. I had the distinct feeling that I should have been busy looking for work first thing in the morning, and that soon I would be totally broke and unable to make rent. I had done a pretty good job of quieting the voices while I was on the road, but now that I stationary again my mind took over that energy and ran off with it.

Then Mandy reminded me that I had just gotten back form a life-changing adventure and it was OK for me to feel that way, but I didn't have to fix it all right now. She also helped me remember that there are some things that I need to do related to the trip and those take priority. I needed to be fully here before I could be here. With that thought I got busy writing about the last couple of days so I could get the blog up to date. A lot had happened so it took me the better part of the day to get it all done. The result was that I felt accomplished and my mind was here instead on on the imagined impending disaster of the future. Thank you, Mandy, for reminding me (again) that action is the key! You're awesome!

In the afternoon Mandy and I went to visit Margie, my surrogate Seattle mom, and I am so glad we did. Margie has seen me through a lot of things over the years and always been a terrific support and I was ecstatic to hear her say that she and Mandy had had a wonderful time together while I was gone. "The more time I spend with her the more I like her," she said. It means the world to me to have her support in this next adventure. Thanks, Mom!

When we got home Mandy cooked my the most wonderful meal. Nothing fancy, just pasta and bread, but my taste buds and belly were happier than they've been in…well…two months. Another thing I had totally taken for granted - Mandy cooties in the food.

After dinner we went out to the Lynnwood Study Group together. It was again wonderful to look around the room and see familiar faces. We read out of the book for a bit, and that focused our discussion on making amends and the importance of making the right ones at the right times. It was another reminder to me that none of us are ever done with this work, and that my real spiritual growth began when I start clearing up the wreckage of the past and striving for a better future. Thanks, LSG!

When the meeting was over I had the chance to catch up with Orvin, Margie's ex-husband and my surrogate Seattle dad. We talked a lot about the trip and he was such a dedicated reader of the blog that at points I felt like he knew more about the trip than I did. It's wonderful to be home with the Seattle family again.

Homecoming!

We woke up Sunday morning excited to be with each other and I was a little antsy to finish the trip. We decided to stop by Mandy's family cabin to tell the news to her sister and it was wonderful to see some more faces I hadn't seen for a while.

We sat on the porch overlooking the lake and drank lemonade and ate lemon squares. (Don't worry Macie, your secret's safe with me.) After all the congratulations on the engagement and such it was time to ask me questions about the trip and that's when I discovered that I hadn't really given much thought to things like my favorite or least favorite of anything. Damn, I should have done that! I don't even know how many states I went through (it's 24 plus DC and one Canadian Province). I have a lot of work to do. I was also acutely aware for the first time that I was very close to being home and it felt strange.

We said our goodbyes and left the cabin to go get an ice cream cone. I was really happy to be having ice cream with Mandy again because it reminded me of our time in New York. What a treat!

After the ice cream we made our way over Stevens Pass and down the hill toward home. Everything was going smoothly until just before Gold Bar and the traffic was nearly stopped. It was a tossup whether it was the result of an accident or just the normal Sunday traffic on Highway 2 so we stopped in the shade on the side of the road and waited to see if it would clear up. It did, and then it got worse, so we decided to backtrack a bit and try a backroad I'd found on the map.

We went back several miles to the town of Index and meandered our way through the woods and into Gold Bar. I'm fairly certain that it didn't buy us any time at all, but we were moving the whole time and the woods were beautiful. I could tell that I was back in Waashington because of the moss covered cedars! I was extremely grateful to be with Mandy for this portion of the trip because she is not the type to get bent out of shape about a little delay like that, and if she, or I for that matter, was it would have made an already hot and uncomfortable afternoon absolutely miserable.

From Gold Bar I tried a few other back roads but didn't make much progress and decided to stay on US 2 and just slog through the rest of it. Other than a few times riding on the shoulder just to keep moving and not die of heat stroke things went along just fine and we made it back to town in time for a cheeseburger before the last meeting of the trip.

On the way to then meeting I was getting really excited about going to a meeting that I knew. I didn't have to look anything up, I didn't have to look at a map to get there, I didn't have to drive around for 20 minutes to find it, none of that, I just went. What a relief.

When we pulled up to the meeting I started seeing people that I knew and I couldn't get my gear off fast enough to start hugging people. The trip was wonderful, and there is no way that I would take it back, but I was now back in a place where I could look around and name 80% of the people in the room and I was peaceful.

It was also at this point that the insanity of my trip came into perspective in a new way. I had left home 60 days before and ridden 12,000 miles, half the circumference of the earth, to arrive at a meeting a little over 3 miles from my house. I'm completely crazy.

The discussion for the evening wavered between talking about what this program has done for us and how we arrive at the ability to forgive ourselves and others. It was a wonderful meeting and I was extraordinarily happy to be with people that I know and love. Thank you all for being there to welcome me home whether you knew you were or not. It means the world to me!

After the meeting we stayed with people and talked for a long time. We were both excited to share the news with some of our friends and I got the chance to catch up with people.

When we left the meeting I couldn't stop talking about how weird it felt to be driving on streets that I knew and going to our house. After all that time on the road it seemed very odd to know where I was going to stay and how to get there.

The house was pretty much how I'd left it except Mandy did a ton of work to make the yard beautiful and inviting and the inside was more like home than ever before. The cats punished me and hid under beds because I had abandoned them, and aside from forgetting which drawer had my underwear in it, and which cupboard had glasses in it, it was as if I'd never left. It's good to be home.

Oh yeah, Paddintgon and Pooh also got to have their most gourmet breakfast of the trip today. Each one got their favorite...

Reunion

I woke up this morning at damn near the crack of dawn and there was no hope of going back to sleep - I was too excited to see Mandy! Unfortunately, we had a plan, and I didn't want to stray from it so I had a few hours to kill before I could leave. I spent the morning catching up on some emails, writing and sending a postcard to Hector in Luray, VA, and eating breakfast slowly so I could depart Spokane around 10am to ride out and meet Mandy on US 2.

As I left Spokane I was so excited that I could hardly stand it. I was trying very hard to stay in the moment, but my mind kept racing 100 miles ahead to the time when I would pass Mandy and her parents and then pull over for her to come meet me. I was so distracted, in fact, that when I made my first stop at a gas station I forgot to put the kickstand down and wound up laying my bike over on its side. (No damage, except to my ego.) I was embarrassed, but it didn't really matter.

As I proceeded west I sent a message to Mandy at every stop and she would respond with their location, and with each message we were a little closer, and right on target to meet just east of Wenatchee, WA. It was perfect.

To be honest, I remember very little about the ride and what I saw except that there were lots of farms, then a valley where it got hot, then a big hill down toward the Columbia River. When I started down the hill I knew we had to be close, and I was right. As I rounded a corner I finally saw the car I had been looking for all day and Mandy was hanging out the window waving frantically. Finally! It had been a long ride.

I pulled off into the first turnout I saw and waited. And waited. I knew she had seen me and I looked up the hill and could see her parents car on the side of the road, but they weren't moving. I panicked and called Mandy - twice. When she answered they were on their way back down the hill. Turns out she'd needed a pee break so I had to wait. Sheesh.

They pulled up and got out of the car and Mandy and I mauled each other. Man, was it good to see her! Feeling her body in my arms was sort of unreal and we were both shaking with excitement. Then I stepped back, put my hands in my pockets and said, "I have two things for you. The first one is this." I pulled my right hand out of my pocket and handed her this:

"It's a Montana heart rock. I found it on the bank of the Missouri River."

She smiled and started rolling the rock around in her fingers nervously and I said, "This other thing has a bit of a story to it. On this trip I have learned a lot of things about the world and about myself. One of those things that I know for certain now is that us meeting at the twelve and twelve was not a mistake. And I would be honored if you would spend the rest of your life with me. So," I paused and pulled my hands from my pockets and dropped to one knee and opened the silver box in my left hand, "will you marry me?"

Mandy jumped back and then lurched forward to look in the box and said, "Absolutely!" Then she paused with her fingers inches away from this:

"Can I touch it?" she asked.

"Absolutely, it's yours."

She pulled the ring from the box and felt every bit of it and then Becky, my stepmom, (I'll explain in a minute) said, "Well try it on sweetheart."

She slid the ring onto her finger and it fit perfectly. I've never experienced a moment so perfect and true in my life. Mandy's smile and mine could have lit a room. I've never been so happy in my life as I was when she said, "This is the absolute best day of my life so far."

After she'd already said yes I walked over to ask her dad, Jerry, if it was OK with him and he just shook my hand and said, "Congratulations." Whew, I hadn't asked beforehand because I wanted it to be a surprise for all three of them, and it worked. Although they all had their suspicions.

So here's how this all worked. For most of the trip I've thought about marrying Mandy but didn't really have a plan. Then somewhere around Tennessee I decided that it would be soon after I got back and I started looking around for a ring but nothing I saw looked like Mandy at all. Then I remembered that my mom and I had talked once about her wedding set and that maybe it would be appropriate for me to use sometime. Well, this was the time, and with the blessing of my father and my sister, it was settled. Only problem was that we didn't know where they were. We knew they were in my mom's house somewhere, but we didn't know where. Alison was already planning a trip to Los Alamos and she said she would look while she was there and I decided that if she didn't have any luck I would just change course to go find them. Thankfully, Alison asked my mom for a little guidance about where to find them and then she found them in the first place she looked!

With the rings located I decided, somewhere in Montana, that it would be pretty great if I could ask Mandy right when I first saw her, I just had to get the rings to me. With friends in Spokane I thought that would work pretty well, and then I remembered that my dad is retired (some days) and my stepmom is on summer break so maybe they could get the rings and meet me in Spokane and be there when I ask. They agreed and the plan was set.

We met in Spokane on Friday and they would follow me west on US 2 until I saw Mandy and then all the parents could be there to see. Some people might say that's too much pressure to put on Mandy, but if you understand how right Mandy and I felt from the start, and that meeting each others families was a pleasure and not a curse then you know that it was the right thing to do.

The result was that somewhere on the side of Highway 2 her mom and my stepmom were both crying, and our fathers were smiling, and it was the happiest moment of my life. Thanks to both of our families for making this possible, not to mention making us so that we fit so well together!

Once she said yes it got awful hot, awful fast on the side of the highway in the desert and we all caravanned to Wenatchee for lunch. I'm not really sure what anyone talked about because I was busy looking at Mandy smile and stare at her ring. But everyone was happy and there was lots of laughter.

I found Mandy and I a place to stay for the night in Wenatchee so we could make the trip home together on Sunday. Once we got checked in and said our goodbyes to our families we set out for walk to a 5:30 meeting. When we got to the church there was no one there, and further investigation revealed that the Saturday 5:30 meeting was a birthday potluck meeting and only happens one Saturday a month, and this wasn't the one.

I looked for another meeting and there was only one and it was a fair distance from the hotel so we would have to get on the bike in the heat so we decided that hanging out with each other was sufficient. We had tried to get to a meeting, but what we really wanted was a quiet evening alone because we hadn't seen each other for a month.

We made our way back to the hotel, had nachos and ice cream (not mixed together because that's gross) and just enjoyed being back together again. It was the perfect end to the perfect day!

Part Malamute, Part Husky, and All Lovable (He Might Have Some Bear in Him, Too)

Last night it poured down rain, and I mean really poured - the kind of rain that drenches everything in thirty seconds or less. Luckily my tent held up quite well to it and I stayed dry. I did, however, have a hard time getting to sleep with the thousands of gigantic raindrops hitting the tent. It felt like I was inside a drum with a bunch of two year-olds pounding on it.

In any case, I slept some and when I got up and started coffee I had the privilege of meeting Benjamin:

Ben, by himself, was wonderful, but attached to him were Leo and Dee, two of the most delightful people on earth. After I had woken up a bit I got to talking with Leo about traveling. "We're from nowhere and everywhere," he said referring to he and his sister. I mentioned my discussion with Barbara about how we attract certain people, and Leo agreed. "Benjamin helps keep out the bad ones," he said. We agreed that our thoughts are very powerful things, and Leo commented that "Thoughts are prayers and prayers are thoughts." Man, how I love to meet people with like minds!

Dee came over and joined the conversation and I told them about the trip. Like most non-program people, they didn't really know how to respond and paused for a minute before saying anything, then they said that they had both given up drinking because it got to be a problem for them. Just like that?! I don't understand it one bit, but I guess that's what makes me belong where I do. I also gave them a little insight into how nice it feels to walk into a room with a bunch of strangers and feel at home. They said that they sometimes wished that they had that.

We also spent a bit of time discussing the need for something bigger than us for help. We never gave it a name, and never described it, but we agreed that it is necessary in order to live a happy and comfortable life. How can it be that I continue to meet myself in so many different bodies? Amazing!

When I was packed up and ready to go I got a hug from Dee and thanked her for being where they were so that we could meet. "You're a great spirit, and I wish you all the best, Nick," she said.

Then Leo sent me off with, "Love be with you on your journey. And may angels fly before you to clear your path, and behind you to keep you safe." I was touched at the time, and as I write this I am a little teary-eyed. Thank you, Ben, for bringing Dee and Leo to me this morning!

With Leo's blessing I made my way west and ended up on Montana 28, and that's when I realized that the Montana State Department of Transportation has strange ideas about what qualifies as a 'highway.' I've ridden through a lot of construction zones on this trip, and seen some sketchy roads, but Montana 28 currently has a twelve mile stretch that is part gravel pit, part mud bog, and part washboard dirt. Who thought that was a good idea? It was mostly safe, but not any fun at all to ride on. The good news is that it came 11,000 miles into the trip and at this point I could ride that bike through just about anything, provided I don't mind beating the crap out of it. Dirt highway…pfft.

After 28 I was thrilled to meet up with Montana 200 through the Clark Fork River valley. The road felt smooth as glass in comparison, and the scenery was breathtaking:

After the Clark Fork the rest of the ride seemed boring. And on top of that I was beginning to get distracted by the fact that I would be seeing Mandy in less than 24 hours. You see, her parents are going to drive her out US 2 to meet me so she can ride home with me! The thought of it excites me so much that I can hardly contain myself. I can't wait to see her!

I got to Spokane around six and checked into a hotel so that I could clean up for Mandy. (The $1.00 for 3 minute camp showers weren't gonna cut it.) After  dinner I went to the First Thing's First Group. It was the second candlelight meeting of the trip and we discussed our solutions for loneliness. We all related instances where we had felt entirely alone in a room full of people, and concluded that meetings are definitely one of the keys for loneliness. Thanks, FTF Group!

Once I got back in the hotel the excitement around tomorrow really started to set in and I am wondering if I will even be able to sleep. Who cares? I get to see my girl tomorrow!

The Power of Attraction

This morning I had a wonderful surprise while having my morning coffee in front of the hotel - her name was Barbara. She and her husband, Billy, had travelled from their home on the Oregon Coast out to Sturgis because "I made my husband go because it's an interesting little slice of Americana," Barbara said.

I explained that the idea of it was a little too much for me, so I had stayed north and avoided Sturgis. She said it was interesting to see, but it was really crowded.

We got to talking a little bit about bikes, and I told her about the trip I was taking, and some good roads we'd been on, the usual biker talk. Then, somehow, we got to talking about all kinds of wonderful things. From Helena they were headed to Lummi Island in Washington to see one of their sons get married, and that brought up the pleasure and joy to be found in a close family. Out of that we got into the cultural differences across the country and for a moment pondered the possibility that the rigidity of the Midwestern character is due to it's straight and flat roads. It could be, you never know…

It was a true delight to spend my morning with Barbara, and later Billy. Thanks for being there, guys, and I'm sorry that we didn't get to ride together today, but some other time we will.

After the best free breakfast of any hotel I have ever stayed in I got to have another wonderful little encounter while packing my bike. Two women, who's names I never asked, were helping one of their daughters move to Helena. These two women were incredibly interested in the trip, and we got to talking about a trip to Alaska. (Don't worry Mandy, it's not planned.) They told me that if I was going to go I should take a ferry or a cruise because the Al-Can is all just trees and nothing else. "If you've seen ten miles of it, you've seen all of it." Thanks for the tip, Ladies!

After her mom and aunt left I chatted with the daughter, Dana, for a minute. Dana is a new teacher just out of school and Dude bless her for it. Although I've talked about it a lot I'm not sure I could ever do it. She even asked me if I was a teacher, too, and when I told her that I was a writer she said, "Yeah, you look like a writer." In my mind I was thinking, 'At least I look the part…' Thank you, Dana, for giving me an added boost!

It was a wonderful morning for people, and I was really glad I had ended up in the hotel I did.

I left Helena on County Road 297 and was ecstatic to be back in the mountains. The road was fun, and this part of Montana is beautiful:

Unfortunately, as a result of warm winters, there are bark beetles that lay dormant in the trees and then eat them in the summer. The result is that there are vast amounts of trees that are dying or dead throughout the forest.

I have to believe that there is some kind of a reason for this, but it makes me really sad to look at it.

The rest of the ride to Bigfork was in and out of little rainstorms and a little uncomfortable, but I pressed on and pulled into Wayfarers State Park just in time to get the last available campsite and set up my tent before heading to a meeting.

The meeting was another book study, and also and inadvertent men's meeting. It was great to spend the evening chatting with those guys about making amends and how they still come up after many years. I was reminded again that none of us are really all that different, and that none of us ever graduate from this thing. Thanks, Bigfork!

When I was leaving the meeting it was raining again, and I didn't want to get wet before getting into my tent for the night so I went and found a little cafe in town for a cup of coffee. I had another one of those moments where I was certain that things had worked the way they did for a reason. The place was cozy and wonderful, and when I asked for something dessert-like the woman told me that she could bake me a scone if I liked. Well, duh, of course I would love a fresh baked scone!

As I waited I was thinking about the day and just as I was thinking about Barbara and Billy they called. I was really glad that they did, because I wanted to thank them for being in Helena this morning and starting my day the way they did. They had made it a fair amount farther than I had, and we talked about the day a bit, and then Barbara and I talked for some time about how the people we meet and the experiences we have are a result of what we attract and what we think about. It was great to hear something like that coming from a non-program person, and it really touched me. Thanks again, Barbara and Billy, for being who you guys are!

When I got off the phone I had a nice time chatting with the cafe owners, and I even got to sample their french onion soup, and I have to say that it was pretty darn awesome. I ended up staying at the cafe until they were ready to go home, and when I asked what I owed them they said that it was on the house, that the conversation was payment enough. What an incredible day, and a wonderful reinforcement of my faith in people!

Doing The Next Thing

This morning after hanging out with Geoff for a bit to catch up I went to find breakfast downtown and ran into Bob, a guy I'd met at the 5:30 meeting the day before. We chatted for a bit and he mentioned that he would be at the noon meeting. I told him that I had some errands to run, but if I am still in town I will go.

The next thing on the list was the last oil change of the trip. I probably could push it to the end, but I decided that I would feel better if I just got it done. I ended up at the Bike Shack just outside of town and was pleased to be able to get it done within an hour. The guys at the shop were great, and I had a really nice time talking with them while I waited. Thanks, Nate!

When I got done at the shop it was a quarter to noon and I took that to mean that I was supposed to go over to the noon meeting, so I did.

The discussion was about how we all deal with people not getting it, and how much we help. It was a good reminder to me that we all have to do what we have to do to get here, and that no amount of extra help can help someone who's not ready. Thanks, Bozeman!

On top of a great meeting I also got to catch up a little bit with Scott, a guy who was instrumental in keeping me around while I was in Bozeman. We lost touch over the years, and I think about him often. It turns out that he is a successful businessman, and happy family man - all as a result of this program! Thanks for coming to a meeting that you usually don't, Scott, and it is great to see that things are going well!

By the time the meeting was over I had settled on the idea of just getting to Helena and calling it a day to have a relaxing evening. So off I went north, but not without seeing Bob not one, but two more times before getting out of town. I think he was following me...

I stopped along the way at a little gas station call Mountain Supply in Townsend. The world really needs more places like this! As I walked through the store I found that not only could I get gas, but also new boots, horse feed, fishing tackle, a hammer and nails, a pack of smokes, ammunition, AND a bottled Frappuccino! Amazing! And I could also catch up with the local news through the people coming through. I overheard what people were harvesting, the problems with Billy's horse, and about a new baby somewhere in town. It's really too bad that most of the country has done away with the General Store. (P.S. Walmart doesn't count!)

I made the last little stretch of the ride to Helena with my rain gear on because it was thunderstorm time again. Luckily, I made it through dry once again!

I got into Helena and got a room for the night and settled in for a realizing evening to recuperate for the final push to get home! And get to Mandy!!

Home again...again...(sort of)

This morning I had the pleasure of having the first really good cup of coffee I have had in a long time - proof that I am getting closer to home. Thank Dude for Crabtree Coffee in Lewistown!

I left Lewistown headed toward Harlowton and ultimately Bozeman. I was riding along and came upon another collection of wind turbines. I am not sure what it is about these things that attracts me. Maybe it's the fact that they have incredible potential to help the environment, but I think it has a lot to do with the fact that they are incredible machines.

These were even placed in active farms and create more income for the farmers. The road was open into the farm so I took a little walk to get a closer look, and holy crap are these big!

I was surprised at the noise they make, too. It sounds a bit like an airplane without the engine, and when there is almost no other noise around they are pretty loud.

After my stop at the wind farm I continued south and made my way into the Gallatin National Forest and the Bridger Mountains. This is the Montana that I know and love. I remember living here in college and having this great sense of being very small in all this space, and it still feels that way. I stopped in the middle of nowhere to listen to the wind and the quiet of the openness, and it felt just the same as it did years ago - peaceful.

It was cold in the mountains and that was wonderful. I geared up heavy and got ready to ride again, and then noticed a giant storm right where I was going…again. This time I held out no hope of missing it, and persisted with the wind at my side and the clouds building. As I got closer to Bozeman it started to look a little less like I would get wet, and by some miracle I managed to make it around the edge of the storm and stay dry! Whew, I must have done something right somewhere.

I was in Bozeman early today so I decided to try to make up a meeting that was missed in Plentywood. I went to the Rebellion Dogs at 5:30 and we talked about how we try to get rid of our selfishness and become useful to other people. It was a very pleasurable discussion and I was glad to be in the room. Thanks, Rebellion Dogs!

After the meeting I chatted with a few folks and asked around to see if anyone knew my friend Geoff from years back and people did! So I got his number and met him at the Farmers Market to catch up for a little bit. It was really great to see Geoff happy, and to meet his wife and little baby. I am glad to know that things are going well for Geoff!

After we chatted for a bit there was another big thunderstorm rolling in and I needed to get out of the rain somewhere so went to the Tuesday at 8 meeting. The meeting was about how we learn to have and use faith, and it was a good reminder to me that I have no idea what's good for me. Thanks, Tuesday at 8!

When the meeting ended I got a chance to talk with some folks that I knew a decade ago when I lived here. It was great to catch up a little bit and have a chat with some familiar people. Thanks, Kurt, Melinda, and Ferd! It was great to see you guys and I'm glad things are well for you all.

I also had the pleasure of talking to Nate after the meeting. Nate is pretty new to our fellowship, and struggling with some of the things that I had a hard time with when I was new (and older). It was great, as always, to talk with someone with the same story and be able to share in the solution. Thanks for being there, Nate, and hang in there!

Geoff and his wife Grace were nice enough to leave the front door open for me and have a futon set up in the front room. They had gone to bed a while before, but still opened their home to me. In the morning Geoff and I got some more time to catch up and chat, and I am grateful that the bonds we make in this fellowship can last through years of not communicating. Thanks, so much Grace, Geoff, Josephine, and Henry (for coming in and licking me in the middle of the night), it was a pleasure to be able to see you guys and a real treat to have a place to stay!

Stormin' the West

I left Plentywood headed west and I was pleasantly surprised by the weather. It was warm when I left and I was already thinking that it was going to be so hot that I was uncomfortable - but it was perfect…for a little while.

I had a bit of a headache, and stopped in Scobey (I really wish it had been Scooby) for gas and to take some Advil, and shortly afterward I was feeling like myself again. The hills were getting bigger and more green, and the scenery was getting much better. But it was starting to get hot.

I stopped just south of US 2 at a little fishing access spot and took some photos of the river, and cool off. It was still too flat for the river to be really running, but it was beautiful nonetheless. I found out later that it was the Missouri River, and I was startled that it was here, but then remembered that the headwaters are near Bozeman, so it makes some sense.

I stopped again at the town of Jordan and I ran into three guys headed down to Sturgis from somewhere in Manitoba. They said they had already ridden 500 miles today, and that they were planning on 200 more to get where they were going. It made me grateful that for most of the trip I have managed to make my days short and not have many places to be.

Coming out of Jordan I was suddenly in a canyonland like place. As I looked around I could have sworn that I was in Utah somewhere. The hills had turned into sharp edged mesas, and the rock was white and red. It was incredible. Then, just as fast as the mesas came - they went, and something wonderful happened… Trees!

It wasn't much, but it did make it feel like I was getting into the Montana that I know.

It was also about this time that I saw a storm moving in from the south. I was hopeful that I could beat it, but I wasn't convinced. I was mostly headed west at this point, and if the storm was as big as it looked it stretched at least to Lewistown, if not farther. After a little more riding I decided that it was time to don the rain gear because I was looking at riding into this:

Right as I was putting my jacket back on the wind was suddenly blowing about 50mph and I was chasing gloves around and struggling to get myself together. I got back on the bike and rode about 10 miles with the wind in my side and the bike at a 45 degree angle just to go straight, and then found the Kozy Korner Cafe in Winnett.

Lo and behold the Canadians from earlier had held up there as well, and we got a chance to swap stories and talk bikes while we let the storm pass. As things started to clear we all went outside and met Buck, the owner of the Kozy Korner. Buck was a true Montanan if I've ever met one. He was friendly and jovial, and also a wealth of knowledge about the weather and the roads. He had been watching the weather move through this area for at least 60 years, and that makes him more valuable than any meteorologist in my book. He warned the Canadians that they were gonna get wet, and warned me about the chipseal work on my way to Lewistown. He was right on my account, and I hope he wasn't for the other guys, but experience tells me they had a wet afternoon.

I made it to Lewistown and a meeting with the Lewistown Group. We read out of our monthly magazine, and the discussion that followed was about learning form the old-timers, and the grace we receive if we are open to it. It reminded me about how excited I am to get back to the Old-Guy meeting, and how grateful I am to be open to that grace today. Thanks, Lewistown!

After the meeting I went for a bite to eat with Hal and Dennis. We had a great little chat about all kinds of things pertaining to our program, and I was thrilled again to hear little parts of my story in theirs. I had a wonderful time, and Dennis even offered me a spare bed in his house! Dennis and I chatted later into the evening and it was a pleasure to spent time with him. Thanks, Dennis and Hal, I appreciate your time!

The Wide Open West

I stopped for gas before leaving Devil's Lake and got to chat with a few other bikers while I was there. Sturgis was this weekend and that meant that there were a lot of people traveling back home from there; the first two guys were headed back to New York. We talked a bit about the places we'd been and the I caught myself doing something that I hate; I was telling them that they ought to go around Lake Superior. Shit, I'm that guy now! Then I did it with the next guy who came in. What's happened to me?!

I hung my head in shame and got back on US 2 headed west. My experience with North Dakota today can be pretty well summed up with one photo:

This is not to say that I didn't see anything interesting, but it was close. I was seeing brown fields for a long time and then I began to see occasional fields of North Dakota's most beautiful crop:

They were definitely a welcome sight amidst the brown barley stubble.

As I was riding along I began to think about the things that the Canadians had told me they enjoy about crossing the plains in the States. Number one was the higher speed limits, and I agree, that is helpful. Number two were the rest areas. I have mostly always taken rest areas for granted, and while I was in Canada they had these great little waysides that had wonderful views and usually had a bathroom of some kind. So I didn't really understand, then I got to thinking that most of our rest areas usually only have views of the parking lot and the restroom building, and just as I started to think that I stopped at a rest area with this view:

Figures that I would start thinking that we never have views at our rest areas and then stumble on that. That's what I get for thinking…

I stopped for lunch in Minot and when I got back on the road I soon turned north onto US 52 and was pleasantly surprised by the change of scenery. I found myself looking at rolling hills on either side of me and I was riding in a nice little valley. The stream winding through the valley made the crop fields fascinating to look at because it cut through the middle of the fields and left crooked edges on them. Here is a satellite photo to illustrate:


View Larger Map

A little farther up the road I went through an area where most graduating classes had used white rocks on the hillside to display their year. I saw years from 1959 all the way up to 2005 and a few of them said 'State Champs' underneath the year. I take this is an indication of how little there is to do in the area, especially because some of the older years have obviously been repainted recently.

US 52 turned into North Dakota 5 and ran a straight line into Montana. the hills got bigger and greener, and I could tell that I was getting closer to the west that I know.

Just a little way into Montana I came into the town of Plentywood where I was planning to go to a meeting. I found the meeting place and also found a sign on the door saying that meetings happen on Wednesday and Saturday - not Sunday. Damn. I was a little bummed out, and looked for another meeting nearby, but the closest one was still 2 hours away, and I would have gotten there in the middle of the meeting if I was lucky. I chalked up another missed meeting and went to find a place to stay. A meeting would have been nice, but a quiet night at the hotel will be nice, too.

To end the day I was walking back from the restaurant and I saw this:

Welcome back to the Big Sky Country.

A Storm A-Brewin'

When I got up this morning I looked at the license plate on the truck next to me and it was from Washington! That's the first one I have seen in weeks. I started up a little conversation and asked them if Washington still existed.

"It did a week ago," they said.

Whew, what a relief. It's been so long since I saw someone from my home state that I was starting to get a little worried. The talk didn't last long, but it was nice to have a conversation with someone with the same accent.

While leaving International Falls the landscape started to get boring pretty quickly. I knew this was going to happen, but it is always a bit of a surprise when the hills disappear and the only thing to look at is the weather:

And it got worse from there. What trees there were started to disappear, and soon the only thing around was farmland. I am sorry to say that those clouds were the only thing I saw today that was really interesting. Even the farmland was extra bare because they had just harvested the barley, and the only activity in the fields was cleaning up the stubble from the harvest. The roads were string straight, and I could see for at least ten miles in all directions at all times. It was a long day.

I pulled into Devil's Lake, ND just in time for the 8 o'clock meeting. It was the first candlelight meeting of the trip, and we talked about our 'design for living' and how it works. There were also some newer folks there, and I always like to hear how it feels to be new. I never want to actually feel that again, so remembering is good. Thanks, Saturday Night Group!

After the meeting I went out for a bite to eat with a few people from the meeting. It was really great to spend some time with family outside of the rooms just talking about life stuff. Thanks, Bill, Pete, Mark, and Pete's wife. (Sorry I forgot your name…) I had a wonderful time!

Homeland Security?

I woke up this morning in my tent and I was freezing, so I bundled up and went back to sleep to let the day warm up a bit. When I woke up again it was 10 o'clock and still quite chilly. It turns out that it got down to about 40 degrees here last night! That's quite the improvement over the 80's and 90's I have been battling at night. It's so much easier to get warmer than it is to get colder.

As I woke up with some coffee I started looking for a meeting for the day. The closest one to the west was about 6 hours away in Dryden, so I started to look at other options. Part of me wanted to get back into the States where things would be more familiar, and a little faster for getting across the plains. That part of the ride was going to be boring either way, and the States are a little more populated through there, so that makes me feel a little better about it. So I started looking for meetings in the States, but there wasn't anything in the area I was headed into. Then I remembered that there was a noon meeting at the Welcome Group here in Thunder Bay. It would be a bit of a scramble to get there, but I could do it.

I walked in a little late but I made it. The discussion centered around humility, and there are few things more entertaining than all of us sitting around talking about how humble we are… In any case, it was a wonderful meeting and there were even some familiar faces from the night before!

After the meeting I got to talking with Sean and we decided to go get some lunch together before I left town. It was a real treat to hang out with Sean. There is something really magical that happens when two of us sit down and start talking, and I really enjoy being able to tell some sort of deep secrets to a near stranger and be able to laugh about it. Thanks, Sean. You are a great spirit. Keep up the good work.

After lunch I headed west and just into the ride I found another one of those tranquil little spots on some water.

The water was lapping up on the shore, the wind was whispering through the aspens, and I could hear almost nothing else. I felt like no one was around for miles, and it was just me and the Universe. Fantastic!

When I got back on the road again I was keenly aware for the first time that I was headed home. For much of the trip I have been chasing my shadow into the east in the afternoons, but today I was headed straight into the western sun, and I began to feel anxious to get back home to my friends, and especially to Mandy. It's good to be pointed toward home.

Riding along Highway 11 I started to get a sense for what it would be like to ride through the prairies in Canada; I went stretches of almost 100 miles without going through a town, and I was accompanied by more ravens than people. I was grateful, however, to have them as my guardians for the day.

Once I got into Fort Frances I was getting a little tired, so I stopped at a grocery store for some snacks. When I got back out to the bike I got to chat with Eric, the first person I had actually talked to since lunch with Sean. Eric is a local guy who has been involved in the paper mill industry in one way or another for white some time. Trouble is, that in recent years about 70% of Ontario's paper mills have been shut down, leaving Eric "waiting for his next calling." It was nice to talk to someone who did not have agitation in his voice because he was out of work. Instead he seemed to be perfectly happy and of the belief that it was the way it was supposed to be, and that's OK. Thanks for the reminder, Eric!

Crossing back into the states involved far more questioning and concern than going the other way. Somehow this seems a litle backward to me. The customs agent was quite disturbed by the fact that I didn't know where I was going for the night, and also took some time to thoroughly inspect the apples in my cooler, for what, I still don't know. It's strange to me that a U.S. citizen has more trouble getting into their country than out of it. I guess homeland security is about protecting us from ourselves…or something like that…

Canadian Beauty

I had a fun little experience at the motel this morning in Marathon. It was like camping, only without the tent. There as no coffee available in the room or at the desk, so I broke out the camp stove and made my own on the back porch. Part of me wondered if they were going to yell at me for it, but I needed coffee, and they would understand that…maybe. It was pretty nice really, and I was glad I had the option.

After the usual wakeup routine I went for breakfast, and afterward met Dwayne. Dwayne was probably 5, and enchanted by my bike. He kept asking me how I was gong to ride it. This was a question I had never really considered an answer to, and every time I started to answer he would look away uninterested, so I finally settled on, "I just get on and ride it the same way you do with your bike."

He seemed satisfied with that answer, or at least distracted, and started pointing to things and asking, "What's that?"

I continued to answer, and then when he asked about the feather I told him it was to help protect me while on the road, and he looked at me with wide eyes and said, "I need one of those!"

I told him that it only really works if you find it on the ground near your bike, and that way you know it's meant for you. His face fell a little, and then he said, "I better start looking," and looked around on the ground.

Just then his mother called for him and he turned away and started walking toward his mom, but he kept talking about something, and looking at the ground. I told him goodbye, but he didn't hear me and just kept walking. Dwayne reminded me that there is wonder in the simple things, and reminded me of the best highway warning sign I've seen on the trip. Somewhere in Kentucky, I think, I saw a yellow diamond warning sign that said, "Watch Children". I am sure that they want us to make sure we don't hit them, but I take it to mean that they can teach us a lot if we just watch them, Thanks, Dwayne!

Shortly after Dwayne left I was getting ready to leave and a cop pulled up behind my bike. For a moment I got a little nervous, but it turns out he was admiring the bike and that was really all. We chatted a little about riding, and he told me about some spots to stop on my way to Thunder Bay. I have to say that it is pretty great to talk to cops and just have a conversation!

I left Marathon headed west and started ticking off the places the officer had told me to stop. First on the list was Aguasabon Gorge.

The falls are actually a spillway from a hydroelectric dam. Too bad none of our spillways are that neat in the States:

The next stop I made was at a little wayside, (although not a direct recommendation by the officer). I stopped because coming down the hill I had seen a tremendous view, and I thought I might be able to get a shot. I had to stand up on the picnic table to get it, but I got it:

I was told that I should stop at Canada's longest suspension bridge, but I was short on time, so I had to pass it up. I did, however, make it to the Terry Fox memorial just outside Thunder Bay, and I am glad I did. I had no idea that there was a one legged cancer survivor who tried to run across the country to raise money for cancer research! That's awesome! And the view was great to boot:

Once in Thunder Bay I went straight to the meeting because I was running a little late. The meeting was the Welcome Group, and that's exactly how I felt. The discussion centered around how we have come to believe in something. I love meetings like that because, of all things, we are all pretty honest and open about that. Thanks, Welcome Group!

After the meeting I rode out to Chippewa Park. After crossing one of the scariest bridge I have ever been on I rode for a long way through the dark, but when it came time to turn into the park a fox ran across the road in front of me, and then led me down the road to the entrance to the park. Thanks, Fox Guy!

Pooh Goes Home

This morning I was feeling much better about being in Canada, thanks to the wonderful meeting, and the tremendous hospitality at the Ambassador Motel. Before leaving the motel I asked Robin, one of the owners, about a good breakfast spot, and was told to try a place called the Mountain Ashe Inn about fifteen minutes north of town. So I headed that way, and just when I was starting to wonder if I'd missed it, there it was on the left. Only problem was, it was closed - permanently.

"I'm in trouble," I thought. I had left town already, and I was starving. I looked around a bit and saw a little fish and chips stand across the highway and thought, "Well, I didn't know I wanted fish for breakfast, but I guess I do."

When I got in line there were four people in front of me and I figured it was going to stay busy, but by the time I ordered everyone else had left, and no one else was coming, so I started talking to the owner, Percy, and I quickly understood why I was at a fish stand for breakfast. This guy was awesome. A native man (half native I found out later) with a tremendous amount of life experience, and was certainly on a spiritual path that I cannot even begin to understand.

Percy served my food and I stood in the window of the stand and we had a wonderful conversation while I ate. He told me about growing up in the area (there is even a bay named after his family) and working jobs like mining, sandblasting, and now cooking. He said, "I never made burgers before this, eh, but I like it. My wife told me, 'you can't do that work.' And I said, 'If I die making burgers I'll die happy, but if I die on the couch at home I will die the most miserable death any man could ask for."

This is a man who knows what he wants and how to get it and then just does it. He says, "If I could have anything in the world at my age (65) it would be an education, eh. I'm good at most things I do, but an education would make me unstoppable." And I believe him.

Growing up Percy was around the elder natives in the area, and they called him Shaganash his whole life. "My mother was white, and that made me less dark than the rest of my family, so they called me Shaganash. It means 'white man'. It stuck, and even all through school people called me Shaganash, or Shag."

He also told me that the remembers one of the elders telling him, "One man is given the gift of the mind, and another is given the gift of the mouth. The creator does this so that we have to work together. No one man can do it alone." That sounds familiar!

Having a fish breakfast with Percy was a tremendous gift this morning, and a good reminder that I cannot possibly begin to plan the great parts of this trip. Thanks, Shaganash!

Shortly after leaving Percy's fish stand I was riding with Lake Superior on my left. It was beautiful, and the weather was so nice that I even had a few moments where I felt cold! I was amazed at the variety in the landscape here along Canada 17. There are more types of rocks than I think I have ever seen in one place, and there is an incredible amount of water around. There are rivers, creeks, and lakes around every corner. My favorites were Mom Lake on the right, Dad Lake on the left, and the Baby Lake on the right. But this was the most beautiful spot I stopped:

I stopped later for a little break overlooking Lake Superior:

And while I was there I noticed a new kind of graffiti. It seems that the thing to do when traveling across Canada is to take a Sharpie and write who you are and what trip you are taking for others to come see:

I wish I'd brought a Sharpie…

Later in the day I came to White River, Ontario, and the most exciting moment of the trip for my passengers. I've mentioned before that I have teddy bears on my bike, but I didn't tell you that they are Paddington and Pooh, and they rode in my mom's car for many years. For the most part they have sat quietly for 9000+ miles, but today they jumped off and ran up to have a look at this:

It turns out that a black bear was born in White River and taken back to the London Zoo and named Winnie. It was this bear that helped inspire A.A. Milne to write the Winnie-the-Pooh stories. Now Pooh has a better knowledge of his lineage, even if I did have to read the plaque to him. I knew there was a reason I brought them along…

The day ended in Marathon, Ontario, a town that exists today because of the gold mines nearby. The meeting was the Nor Wester group, and it was another book study. It was a pleasure to be a part of a small tight-knit group and discuss the process of making amends, and the freedom that comes from it. Thanks, Nor Wester Group!

Oh, Canada!

Before I left Mackinaw City this morning I had breakfast downtown, and as I was leaving the little breakfast joint I heard some chirping coming from the awning. It sounded a little like a baby bird, so I went looking for a nest. I didn't find a nest, but I did find several of these guys:

They are little brown bats that apparently think that the awning over the breakfast place is some kind of cave. They weren't bothering anyone, so I guess it's fine, but I didn't expect to find that.

Based on the recommendation of some Canadians I met in Tennessee I decided to pass through the Upper Peninsula of Michigan to get to Sault Sainte Marie, Ontario. This all seemed like an easy enough task, but that all started to change when I discovered that it was laundry day again.

I located a laundromat across the strait in St. Ignace, MI, and when I put the address into the GPS it took forever to calculate, and then told me that my arrival time would be 9 am. It was noon! And it was only 6 miles away! Upon further investigation I found that I still had it set to avoid Interstates, toll roads, and traffic, and therefore it was planning to take me on the 1098 mile trek around Lake Michigan. Amazing that were it not for a four mile bridge it would take days to travel six miles north.

So I crossed the bridge for the low price of $3.50. I find it interesting that they charge by the axle, and this meant that I paid the same toll that a car does. Nevermind the fact that 2 wheels does less damage than 4, but whatever, I got across and found the laundromat.

It seems that this laundromat has the market pretty well cornered around these parts, because they can charge $6.00 per load to wash and dry! I was beginning to dislike this U.P. to Canada plan…

While my laundry was doing it's thing my mind started to race about going to Canada. Most of the panic was coming from the fact that my phone has become a lifeline in a lot of ways. Not only is it my connection to home, but it is also how I find meetings, estimate travel times for the day, and any other number of things that get me to the next meeting. But now I was planning to travel to a place where roaming charges could quickly break the bank. On top of that I was having trouble figuring out where meetings were, even with the phone, and realizing that there were very long distances between meetings in Canada. This was going to be tough, and I was in a bit of a panic and about ready to say, "Never mind Canada!"

Then I called Mandy and she reminded me that action is the key, that I should go and try it, and if it's terrible I can always come back into the states. She was right, and I was feeling better.

So I packed up the most expensive load of laundry ever and headed north. I quickly realized that if West Texas had more trees it would be very hard to tell if you were there or on the U.P. They are essentially the same; people talk different, the landscape is flat, it's hot, and the only thing around to speak of is wind. Oh, and it's boring.

I crossed the bridge into Canada. (Paying another $3.00 toll and realizing that I had just paid $3.50 to get into a place and $3.00 to get out of it, and experienced nothing in between.) When I told the customs guy that I was going to Canada to go to meetings he looked at me sideways and said, "You're doing what?"

"I'm traveling the continent trying to do 60 meetings in 60 days."

He paused, and I got nervous. These types of situations always make me nervous, even though I haven't done anything to get caught for in a long time.

After the long pause he handed my passport back and asked what I did for a living. (I then understood why I had to wait in line.) I told him and we chatted for a second and he said, "Have a good trip."

I breathed a sigh of relief and darted away from his booth before he could change his mind. I'd made it into Canada!

Once in Canada I started to feel a little better. (Other than not knowing how fast I was going.) I located the meeting and then got some food. Then after the food I went back to the meeting and was immediately relieved by just being in the room. This thing is magic!

The chairperson, John, told a little of his story and I could swear he was telling mine. Just like what happened in Kentucky, I immediately knew I was in the right place. The conversation that followed was about taking inventory, spiritual awakenings, and love. At one point it was mentioned that as selfish people coming into the program it is impossible for us to love, but after the spiritual awakening of the steps we can begin to see it, feel it, and even show it. An extra big thanks to the Northern Group in Sault Ste Marie for reminding me what it's all about!

After the meeting some folks were kind enough to lend me some advice about camping outside of town, but after being warned about moose on the road I decided that riding at dusk was going to be a bad idea, and got a room at the Ambassador Motel. This place even gives you an actual key to your room!

The meeting reminded me that it would all be just fine, and Mandy was totally right, action was the key! Thanks, Darlin'!

Oh, yeah, and I got to see this:

Relief

I woke up this morning when my body was ready to and it felt wonderful! Yesterday I was feeling a little bit like I couldn't go any farther and the trip would need to end, but a good night's sleep has left me feeling fully rested for the first time in weeks. I am still feeling like it is close to time to be home, but I'm not exhausted and feel like I can continue the journey. Whew, that was a close one.

For breakfast I went to Bob Evan's, which appears to be the regional equivalent of Denny's, and it was delicious. After I ate I was outside and started talking to a local couple about the trip, the weather, etc. and I really wish I had some kind of a handheld ticket clicker because I really wanted to be able to count the number of times the man said "Oh yeah. Heck yeah." And it was never just, "Oh yeah," or "Heck yeah," always both. Toward the end of the conversation I was starting to have a hard time holding back the laughter, and not because I didn't think he should say it any more, or in a condescending way, but it was just damn funny.

From Saginaw I went north and took a right on US 23 to travel around the 'index finger' of Michigan. I was really glad to be off the Interstate, but unfortunately it was still flat and straight. The good news was that there were things to look at again. I was leaving the farmland behind and in the forest again, and after a short time I had Lake Huron to my right.

All I can say about that is, "That's a huge frickin' lake!" It feels a little like looking out at the ocean, only I know that if times were really tough I could drink from the lake to stay alive.

Before I left Saginaw I had looked at the weather and it was looking like I was going to be in the rain all day long, but I must have done something right somewhere, because I managed to stay behind the storm all day long. That also meant that I stayed cool all day. Thank Dude!

US 23 reminded me a lot of US 101 down the Oregon Coast. It is obviously a destination spot, with lots of little rental cabins and hotels by the water. I found it fascinating that at least 90% of the shoreline is privately owned, and I know this because everyone has a sign my the road to mark their spot. Good thing, too, because without the signs no one would be able to find their cabin, it would just be miles and miles of mailboxes that look pretty much the same. The signs were interesting too. They ranged from names painted on plywood to intricate hand-carved pieces announcing things like, 'Howard's Hideaway".

I stopped for a little break at a small gas station and met Ted. Ted introduced himself by pulling up next to me in his garbage truck and asking, "Wanna trade?"

"Not today," I told him, "Im not sure I'd have as much fun getting back to Seattle."

"Don't be so sure, she handles like a dream." I eyed the truck a bit. "And she only uses a gallon every hundred miles…of oil."

I wasn't sold on the trade, but we talked for a bit. I was relieved to have had a conversation with someone on the side of the road. It told me that I was back on the highways where everyone isn't in such a damn hurry. Thanks, Ted.



At my last stop on US 23 I got to actually pump water out of the ground and into my water bottle using this:

The meeting for the day was in Mackinaw City (technically a village by definition). It was a fantastic little meeting about how and how much to help others. I was reminded that if someone wants to go then we can't say anything right, but if someone wants to stay we can't say anything wrong. Thanks, Mackinaw City Group!

The day was an absolute relief all around, and I am glad to be back on the blue highways!