Oh, Canada!

Before I left Mackinaw City this morning I had breakfast downtown, and as I was leaving the little breakfast joint I heard some chirping coming from the awning. It sounded a little like a baby bird, so I went looking for a nest. I didn't find a nest, but I did find several of these guys:

They are little brown bats that apparently think that the awning over the breakfast place is some kind of cave. They weren't bothering anyone, so I guess it's fine, but I didn't expect to find that.

Based on the recommendation of some Canadians I met in Tennessee I decided to pass through the Upper Peninsula of Michigan to get to Sault Sainte Marie, Ontario. This all seemed like an easy enough task, but that all started to change when I discovered that it was laundry day again.

I located a laundromat across the strait in St. Ignace, MI, and when I put the address into the GPS it took forever to calculate, and then told me that my arrival time would be 9 am. It was noon! And it was only 6 miles away! Upon further investigation I found that I still had it set to avoid Interstates, toll roads, and traffic, and therefore it was planning to take me on the 1098 mile trek around Lake Michigan. Amazing that were it not for a four mile bridge it would take days to travel six miles north.

So I crossed the bridge for the low price of $3.50. I find it interesting that they charge by the axle, and this meant that I paid the same toll that a car does. Nevermind the fact that 2 wheels does less damage than 4, but whatever, I got across and found the laundromat.

It seems that this laundromat has the market pretty well cornered around these parts, because they can charge $6.00 per load to wash and dry! I was beginning to dislike this U.P. to Canada plan…

While my laundry was doing it's thing my mind started to race about going to Canada. Most of the panic was coming from the fact that my phone has become a lifeline in a lot of ways. Not only is it my connection to home, but it is also how I find meetings, estimate travel times for the day, and any other number of things that get me to the next meeting. But now I was planning to travel to a place where roaming charges could quickly break the bank. On top of that I was having trouble figuring out where meetings were, even with the phone, and realizing that there were very long distances between meetings in Canada. This was going to be tough, and I was in a bit of a panic and about ready to say, "Never mind Canada!"

Then I called Mandy and she reminded me that action is the key, that I should go and try it, and if it's terrible I can always come back into the states. She was right, and I was feeling better.

So I packed up the most expensive load of laundry ever and headed north. I quickly realized that if West Texas had more trees it would be very hard to tell if you were there or on the U.P. They are essentially the same; people talk different, the landscape is flat, it's hot, and the only thing around to speak of is wind. Oh, and it's boring.

I crossed the bridge into Canada. (Paying another $3.00 toll and realizing that I had just paid $3.50 to get into a place and $3.00 to get out of it, and experienced nothing in between.) When I told the customs guy that I was going to Canada to go to meetings he looked at me sideways and said, "You're doing what?"

"I'm traveling the continent trying to do 60 meetings in 60 days."

He paused, and I got nervous. These types of situations always make me nervous, even though I haven't done anything to get caught for in a long time.

After the long pause he handed my passport back and asked what I did for a living. (I then understood why I had to wait in line.) I told him and we chatted for a second and he said, "Have a good trip."

I breathed a sigh of relief and darted away from his booth before he could change his mind. I'd made it into Canada!

Once in Canada I started to feel a little better. (Other than not knowing how fast I was going.) I located the meeting and then got some food. Then after the food I went back to the meeting and was immediately relieved by just being in the room. This thing is magic!

The chairperson, John, told a little of his story and I could swear he was telling mine. Just like what happened in Kentucky, I immediately knew I was in the right place. The conversation that followed was about taking inventory, spiritual awakenings, and love. At one point it was mentioned that as selfish people coming into the program it is impossible for us to love, but after the spiritual awakening of the steps we can begin to see it, feel it, and even show it. An extra big thanks to the Northern Group in Sault Ste Marie for reminding me what it's all about!

After the meeting some folks were kind enough to lend me some advice about camping outside of town, but after being warned about moose on the road I decided that riding at dusk was going to be a bad idea, and got a room at the Ambassador Motel. This place even gives you an actual key to your room!

The meeting reminded me that it would all be just fine, and Mandy was totally right, action was the key! Thanks, Darlin'!

Oh, yeah, and I got to see this:

Relief

I woke up this morning when my body was ready to and it felt wonderful! Yesterday I was feeling a little bit like I couldn't go any farther and the trip would need to end, but a good night's sleep has left me feeling fully rested for the first time in weeks. I am still feeling like it is close to time to be home, but I'm not exhausted and feel like I can continue the journey. Whew, that was a close one.

For breakfast I went to Bob Evan's, which appears to be the regional equivalent of Denny's, and it was delicious. After I ate I was outside and started talking to a local couple about the trip, the weather, etc. and I really wish I had some kind of a handheld ticket clicker because I really wanted to be able to count the number of times the man said "Oh yeah. Heck yeah." And it was never just, "Oh yeah," or "Heck yeah," always both. Toward the end of the conversation I was starting to have a hard time holding back the laughter, and not because I didn't think he should say it any more, or in a condescending way, but it was just damn funny.

From Saginaw I went north and took a right on US 23 to travel around the 'index finger' of Michigan. I was really glad to be off the Interstate, but unfortunately it was still flat and straight. The good news was that there were things to look at again. I was leaving the farmland behind and in the forest again, and after a short time I had Lake Huron to my right.

All I can say about that is, "That's a huge frickin' lake!" It feels a little like looking out at the ocean, only I know that if times were really tough I could drink from the lake to stay alive.

Before I left Saginaw I had looked at the weather and it was looking like I was going to be in the rain all day long, but I must have done something right somewhere, because I managed to stay behind the storm all day long. That also meant that I stayed cool all day. Thank Dude!

US 23 reminded me a lot of US 101 down the Oregon Coast. It is obviously a destination spot, with lots of little rental cabins and hotels by the water. I found it fascinating that at least 90% of the shoreline is privately owned, and I know this because everyone has a sign my the road to mark their spot. Good thing, too, because without the signs no one would be able to find their cabin, it would just be miles and miles of mailboxes that look pretty much the same. The signs were interesting too. They ranged from names painted on plywood to intricate hand-carved pieces announcing things like, 'Howard's Hideaway".

I stopped for a little break at a small gas station and met Ted. Ted introduced himself by pulling up next to me in his garbage truck and asking, "Wanna trade?"

"Not today," I told him, "Im not sure I'd have as much fun getting back to Seattle."

"Don't be so sure, she handles like a dream." I eyed the truck a bit. "And she only uses a gallon every hundred miles…of oil."

I wasn't sold on the trade, but we talked for a bit. I was relieved to have had a conversation with someone on the side of the road. It told me that I was back on the highways where everyone isn't in such a damn hurry. Thanks, Ted.



At my last stop on US 23 I got to actually pump water out of the ground and into my water bottle using this:

The meeting for the day was in Mackinaw City (technically a village by definition). It was a fantastic little meeting about how and how much to help others. I was reminded that if someone wants to go then we can't say anything right, but if someone wants to stay we can't say anything wrong. Thanks, Mackinaw City Group!

The day was an absolute relief all around, and I am glad to be back on the blue highways!

The Straight and Boring

I woke up this morning to an alarm that I didn't know I'd set, it was quiet at first, and then got louder, like it was right next to my tent. It was this guy:

And he was right next to my tent. He must have started making noise as he was hopping up to greet me. He didn't say much after I noticed him, but he did hang around to make sure I got out of bed.

Shortly after getting up I realized that I had a headache and a stiff neck. I felt a little like I was hungover, but without the guilt and remorse that makes it really terrible. Maybe I didn't drink enough water yesterday…

In any case, the way I felt made the already boring roads even worse. I wound up on Interstates most of the day to get myself through Southern Michigan and up to Saginaw. I had intended to go farther, but the headache made me stop more often and take it a little slower.

The result of riding Interstates, as usual, is that I saw nothing, talked to almost no one, and experienced very little during the day. As disappointing as I found the day I was pleased to have still made progress north, and therefore closer to home.

I ended the day with the Peace Group in Saginaw, MI. It was a book study and we read a story that I don't think I've read before. I was struck by a passage about the author's surprise at other member's caring. It reminded me that the magic of this whole thing is in that care for one another. And that the love that strangers can have in this fellowship is incredible and not found in many places. Thanks, Peace Group!

After the meeting I found a Motel 6 and got a room to see if I can get rid of this stiff neck by sleeping in a bed. Here's to hopin'.

Of All Things...

Today was another day filled with wonderful and amazing little surprises - Things I had no idea would happen on this trip.

After I had some coffee and packed up the bike I called Phil to see if he wanted to get breakfast. He was too tired from working all night long, but he recommended that I go to the Fort Shawnee Diner and Dairy Bar about fifteen miles outside of town. I wasn't starving, so I went out there, and when I pulled up it looked like the place was closed, but the door was open so in I went.

I ordered the french toast, bacon, and scrambled eggs, and I am fairly certain that the eggs were the best I've had the entire trip. They were perfect, still a little runny, and I could tell they were farm fresh. The bacon was nice and thin and crisp, without being burnt, and the french toast was just cinnamony enough to be delicious. It was the perfect breakfast.

After that I rode north from the river on some wonderful roads through the hills. The scenery was wonderful, but I am sorry to say that nothing stood out as needing to be photographed, so there are no photos today.

I stopped in Greenfield for a break and while I was enjoying the half sun through the clouds a man in a pickup said, "You've come a long way, haven't you?"

I told him I'd come the really long way and that I still had a ways to go. He smiled and told me to be safe. I said that I would and started to turn away, but he said, "Here, this'll keep you safe." I turned around. "It's a buckeye," he said.

"Well, thank you, I appreciate that." I said as I pocketed the gift.

He nodded, started his truck and drove off.

That's when I decided to do the daily hunt for an iPhone 4. I have kept this mostly to myself until now because it has only frustrated me, but today I found one! In Washington Court House, OH of all places. So I rode up there and I made it there before someone else wanted it. Now I have a new phone that I don't feel like throwing across the room every time I use it (iPhone 3G + iOS4 = CRAP!), and the extra bonus is that I got to hang out with the folks in the store and chat about the trip. I just love it when people are interested. Thanks, AT&T people in Washington Court House!

From there I continued north to get to Defiance, OH. When I saw Defiance on the map I thought, "I have go there. That name is way too good to skip." The ride was pretty nice, but one unfortunate thing happened - the roads got straight and flat again. They even had 35 mph curve warning signs on 65 mph curves. These people have obviously never seen curvy roads. I think they should just have a yellow warning sign with a straight arrow on it to warn you that you will not turn…for 100 miles.

So, I managed to make it to Defiance for the 8:30 meeting. Trouble was that the 8:30 meeting had been moved to 7:00, so I'd missed it. Luckily, Randall had missed it too. Randall was visiting from Texas and was in front of the club when I pulled up. Without a meeting we decided to have our own out in front, and that was exactly what I needed, just some good one-on-one talking time. Thanks, Randall!!

Randall was also nice enough to ask his family about camping nearby and passed along that there was a spot called Shepherd's Pasture out on highway 15. They also had a phone number, so I called, but there was no answer so I figured I would just drive out 15 and see what I could find.

On my way out of town I passed the Central Fire Station and the guys were all out front talking to the Sheriff, and I thought, "If anyone knows their way around this place it's these guys." So I stopped and asked about a place to camp.

They all discussed my options, and sounded like they were coming up with nothing, so I said, "I've heard about this Shepherd's Pasture place, but don't really know where it is." And that's when the Sheriff, Chris, got on his radio and called his office to sake if they had a contact number for the owner. (This was getting good.) The office said they did have a number and he asked them to call and see about a spot for me. And they did!

When Chris got off his radio he said, "Just follow me and I'll get you there." Really!? Of all the things I thought might happen on this trip, a police escort to a campground certainly wasn't one of them. The last time I had a police escort it was back to my dad's house…and not friendly at all. Who knew?

When we got to the campground Chris had to run off for another call, but gave me his card in case I needed anything. I love small towns! Thank you Chris, and all the firefighters, not only for the help, but also for the job that you do every day, I appreciate it very much!

Kentucky Rednecks

This morning after breakfast I was sitting out in front of the hotel having a smoke and met the most wonderful person, Marty. She walked out of the front door of the hotel, looked at me sitting on the bench, and pointing to the empty seat next to me, said, "I'm gonna sit here, and I promise to behave myself." I chuckled a little and she sat down.

After a moment I turned to her and asked, "So, what brings you to Harlan, Kentucky?"

She smiled and said, "I'm Harlan High class of fifty-eight and we have a little reunion every two years. Actually I didn't graduate from Harlan, in fact I didn't get my diploma until nineteen ninety-eight, but I like coming back here to see the people."

We talked for a bit about Harlan and I told her some about the trip, and then she got a phone call. I'm not sure who was on the other end, but I do know that just after saying hello she said, "Now sweetie, you're gonna have to make this quick. I'm out in front of the hotel and I've got a man cornered."

I wish I hadn't been drinking coffee right when she said that, because I spit a little out my nose and laughed.

When she got off the phone it was like nothing had ever happened. Marty just went right back to talking. She told me a lot about what it was like growing up in here. Harlan, like a lot of eastern Kentucky, is a coal town, and Marty thinks there is something about having one's father be in constant peril that makes the entire town pull together and become a big family. She remembers being in high school and being conscious that some people had more money than others, but no one was better than anyone else, and everyone looked out for each other.

Marty was a wealth of information, including knowing the origin of the term
'redneck.' "It started right here in Harlan County," she said. "In the thirties there was a lot of turmoil in the mining community, and all the union miners and union supporters wore red bandanas around their necks. That way people could tell who was who."

I think it's incredible that something like that can get so turned around through the years.

After we talked for a little while I told her the details of my trip, and we had a wonderful talk about the importance of friends and family. We had talked some about it earlier, but I told her about my travels through the biggest family on earth, and she smiled from ear to ear.

Talking with Marty reminded me why I wanted to take this trip in the first place - to talk to folks about life. Thanks for sharing the bench with me, Marty!

After my talk with Marty I was ready to get back on the road, she had fired me up. I started north again and found highway 160 through eastern Kentucky. I have tried to keep expectations to a minimum for this trip because that allows for more great surprises, and Kentucky was easily one of the biggest surprises. This place in beautiful! The mountains are lush, the farmland is fertile and green, and the roads are great:

I wound my way north and ended the day in Portsmouth, OH. When I got into town I went straight to the meeting place and was lucky to pull up next to Phil. He reassured me that I was in the right place for a meeting, but it wasn't for another hour. I asked him about a place to eat and he said, "There's a great place for footers just up there."

I said, "OK," and I didn't tell him that I was unsure what a footer was, but I wanted to find out. So I went to the little stand and then it dawned on me that a footer was a foot-long hot dog. Duh. So, I had a footer and net back over to the church.

The meeting was the 12 and 12 Group and it was a speaker meeting. I have to say that I was a little relieved to just be able to sit and listen for a change, and I was really grateful for the story that I heard.

After the meeting I asked Phil about places to camp and he was kind enough to arrange a campsite with his nephew, Dave, and also take me to his house to have a shower. Thanks, Phil!

After setting up camp I had a chance to sit with Dave by the campfire and chat about life and recovery. What a treat to have good company by the fire on the bank of the Ohio river. Thanks, Barb and Dave!

Faith Renewed

This morning I woke up in my tent and it was hot again, so I decided almost immediately that a hotel room would be a good idea. I took my time getting my things together and packed on the bike and rode back to town and checked back into get the A/C.

It was a good thing, too, that I decided to get a hotel, because I needed to do laundry and take a shower if I was going to be anything that resembled presentable for the meeting tonight at the treatment center. I kept myself busy most of the day, and that meant that my mind wasn't running about what I was going to say until I was on my way up the hill to the meeting, and then it started to race. I kept thinking about all the things that I wanted to say and how I was gonna tie it all together, and it was soon just a mess up there.

Then, when I walked into the room and saw that the place was more packed with people than I thought it was going to be, I really started to panic. I went outside to smoke and collect myself a bit, and said something that resembled a prayer. When I got back into the room I still had no idea what I was going to say, but realized that it didn't matter. I was going to say whatever I said, and that was going to be fine.

And that's exactly what I did. I stood up at the podium and I talked, and when I started running out of things to say I turned to look at the clock and I was out of time. Perfect! I have no idea what I said, but I know that I spoke and that people seemed to enjoy it, and I felt great. And not just because it was over, but because I had been given the chance to share my story with a room full of people I'd only known for 23 hours. It was certainly one of those times that I knew I was in the right place at the right time, and I felt that.

When I walked out of the treatment center I looked at the sky and saw this:

Someone's looking out for us…

As I was leaving someone mentioned that they were going to the meeting down in Harlan and I figured I'd stop in for the chance to hear someone else talk for a while. The meeting was great, and there was even another Nick there who has most of the same story that I do! Maybe it's in the name…

Thank you so much to the people of Harlan, especially Stacy for having the courage to ask me to speak, Shawn, for the support, and Nick, for telling my story when I needed to hear it. You all (Y'all) gave me the most wonderful couple of days at a time when I really needed it, and it means more than you may ever know. Keep doing the deal, Harlan!

Dude Bless the Blue Highways

This morning I hunted down another wonderful breakfast at a place called the Little House of Pancakes. I would have gone with the all-you-can-eat pancakes, but the special was a waffle, and I am sort of partial to waffles. I considered sticking around for a bit and updating the blog, but when I went outside it smelled like rain and there were dark clouds looming all around so I hightailed it out of town in hopes of staying dry.

I didn't really have a destination in mind for the day, I just knew that I wanted to get farther north, so I just took random turns onto highways headed north and was reminded that the back roads of this country really are where it's at. Had I been on an Interstate I never would have known that this little spot on the Pigeon River existed:

I stayed in this little spot for a little while and wondered what it must have been like to find this spot for the first time in the middle of nowhere. Not only is it a beautiful little spot to look at, but there were fish jumping all over the place and it would be a great source of food. It's no wonder people settle by the water, it's so peaceful!

A little ways down the road I stopped for some coffee and found highway 70 on the map to take me north and cut the corner of Virginia into Kentucky. What a fabulous road! Only out in the country can you see horses on the side of the road:

Have a little kitty come up to you at a gas station and cover your legs with hair and yell at you for something,  then glare at you when you leave:

AND get to twist and turn up over the wooded hills. Dude Bless the Blue Highways!

Before coming up 70 I found that there was a meeting in Harlan, KY. It wasn't very far to ride, but the meetings are a little sparse out here so I went for it.

The meeting was packed! And mostly because there is a women's treatment center nearby and that meant that about 60 of them came down to the meeting in vans. It was one of the few meetings I have been to where the women outnumbered the men by so many.

We talked about the responsibility we have to the fellowship and it's members and it was a really great little discussion with lots of talk of gratitude. After the meeting Stacy asked me if I might like to stop back through Harlan on my way home and speak at the treatment center. I told her that this was my way back through, but that if it was in the next couple of days I would be happy to. She took my phone number and said that she would call later to let me know. Lo and behold, when I got to my campsite my phone rang and it was Stacy telling me that they would love it if I could come speak tomorrow night! Although speaking at a women's treatment center is something that I never thought I would be asked to do I accepted because I was told early on to say yes when asked to do things like that.

So it looks like I will be spending an extra night in Kentucky tomorrow, and I have to say I am a little nervous, but I now understand why I made the turns I did onto the highways to get me to Harlan. Now I will try to ignore the butterflies and remember to be grateful for the opportunity. Thanks, Stacy!