Where do twisty roads go when they die?

Last night while I was setting up my camp my neighbor came over to ask if I had everything that I needed. I told him that I did, and that I appreciated it, but I was also on the phone and couldn't give him my full attention. When I got up this morning I felt a little bad for not having talked to him the night before so I went over to say thanks. He said it was no problem and then asked if I wanted pancakes. I figured that I was either drooling while he was cooking, or he was just very friendly and wanted to share with a fellow traveler.

I was hungry, and a little tired of eating instant oatmeal for breakfast so I said "yes, of course I would like some pancakes." So as it went I had a wonderful breakfast with Richard and Melody, and they were both quite wonderful people. We got talking about all kinds of things, and one of them was a marriage workshop their church sponsors. A lot of the focus of the workshop is that the time we spend with our partner is all valuable, and therefore should be cherished. I took the chance to brag a little about Mandy again and tell them that the time I spent with her in New York was definitely some of the most cherished of the entire trip, and for that I am grateful.

Richard grew up in Kentucky and told me a story about their mailman when he was a kid. (Keep in mind here that Richard is far from elderly.) So, the mailman in his area was named Moses, and still delivered mail on horseback. Yes, Horseback! Evidently, Moses was one of the last two mail carriers in the country to do his job on a horse. The best part is that the horse knew the route so well that sometimes Moses would fall asleep on the horse and and the horse would stop at a fencepost and wait until Moses woke up and got the mail from the sack and then would start walking again. Richard even said that he had ridden the horse once for pleasure, and it had stopped at every fencepost on the route, just because that is what it knew to do. That would have been a sight to see.

After breakfast I took my time getting my things together and then wandered over to say goodbye and thank you again to Melody and Richard, and he turned to me and said, "If you've got a few minutes we're gonna have hot dogs if you want to join us."

"Well, a man's gotta eat," I replied and we had another meal together with more great conversation. What a wonderful surprise to have such a nice couple share their time and their food with me. Thanks, Melody and Richard!

So I was fed and on my way. The Blue Ridge was again beautiful and peaceful. I rode for about an hour and then stopped at Crabtree Falls for coffee and a snack, and that's where I met Fred:

Fred is what his owners like to call a "Highpoint Dog". Derek and Renee explained that in their off time they go "highpointing" where they hike the highest points in states and regions, and Fred goes with them. Even if his ears are longer than his legs, he's still managed to summit 13 of the highest points in the country. Way to go, Fred!

From Crabtree Falls down to Asheville, NC, I kept having this little daydream about of an interview with James Lipton where he asks me, "Nick, if heaven exists, what would you like to hear God say when you arrive at the pearly gates?"

For today my answer is this, "Here are the keys to all the bikes in this garage, and welcome to North Carolina." This place is amazing!

And it keeps going like that in both directions for miles and miles. My bike hasn't been this happy with me since California. And on top of that I get to look at views like this:

For a place to stay I decided that I would go to Tipi Camp in Asheville, partially because they cater specifically to motorcycles, and partially because they converted an Airstream trailer to a bathhouse! I arrived and was greeted with a very warm reception by Jay and Lani, the owners. These two have a wonderful little spot to pitch a tent or stay in one of their tipis. It's just far enough out of town to be peaceful and not so far as to be inconvenient. Jay has even offered to take me out on some of the great roads nearby! What a great find. Thanks, Lani and Jay!

The meeting was the West Asheville Group and was just down the street. The topic was a little bit about going places we think maybe we shouldn't, and partially about our thinking getting us in trouble. It was a great meeting, and a wonderful group of folks. Thanks, West Asheville Group!

The night ended with some time around the campfire with Lani, Jay, and their neighbor, Sam. There is something very peaceful about staring into a campfire, and swapping stories with people. It was a terrific way to end the day.

Goin' to Carolina, and not just in my mind

This morning I woke up cooking in my tent and the sun wasn't even up yet. Last night I had chosen to stay at Roanoke Mountain Campground because it was close by, and the result was that it was hot and reminded me of Texas, minus the alligators and centipedes.
Luckily, once I was outside the tent it was slightly cooler and I was able to have some coffee and breakfast while I packed up before the heat really kicked in. After I was packed up I decided to go back into Roanoke for some real coffee and internet access. The day started to heat up shortly after and I knew that I had to get moving before I melted, so I headed back up to the Blue Ridge Parkway and went south.

Within twenty miles I was back up above 2000 feet and the temperatures were manageable again. The road and the scenery were much like the Skyline:

But there was one major difference. Because the Parkway isn't a National Park there is private land that butts up to the road and it makes it feel a little bit like New York State without the little towns. But the cemeteries are there without the towns:

This particular one is mostly Shavers, and I presume all are family. It contained two of the saddest headstones I have ever seen:

The thing that really got me choked up about it is that they were both born to the same parents. Part of me wants to research what exactly happened, but most of me is just tremendously sad for them,

Along the Parkway there are also fantastic views of old barns and cabins that make me want to go out in the middle of nowhere and live off the land, but then I remember that I like people today as a result of this program and there is no way I really want to give that up.

At about two in the afternoon I stopped for a break in Meadows of Dan, VA, a very small town just off the Parkway. I found a wonderful little store and wandered through the fresh local produce, all manner of wooden furniture, and little locally made treats like dried cantaloupe. I stocked up on snack items and sat outside for a break.

While I was nibbling on the locally dried beef jerky a guy pulled up on a Goldwing and I asked him where he was headed. This was a mistake. The dissertation that followed was not at all interesting to me, and especially the part about how many awards he has won with the Goldwing (which is ugly if you ask me), and how many riding skills contests he's won. Maybe it's just me, but I find people who brag about things to strangers to be a little irritating, or maybe a lot irritating. As he was leaving he said to me, "Of course, this thing's got music and everything, too." I wanted to tell him, "You're not that special." But instead I just nodded my head and waited for him to leave first because he had been sure to tell me that he had been going 75mph the whole way from Waynesboro, and part of me wanted to see him pulled over down the road. Some people puzzle me.

About thirty miles down the road is the Blue Ridge Music Center, and although I was too late for the mid-day show I wanted to stop in and see if they had a shirt for my dad. I figured that the extra-small and the medium shirt wouldn't fit, but the musicians were still playing so I stayed for a bit to listen.

The group was probably about twelve people, but the best to watch were the two elders with a banjo and a fiddle. These two guys were well into their seventies and still played with incredible passion. There is something wonderful about watching a seasoned player play an instrument so effortlessly. Incredible.

When I was leaving I started talking to Stacy and Lloyd, a couple from Connecticut. The two of them had been down in Atlanta and now were headed back home. Somewhere along the way they had encountered a Black and Tan Coonhound running down the highway, and had stopped to pick it up. The puppy was terribly skinny from being on it's own, but was very sweet and likable. They hadn't decided on a name yet, and tasked me with coming up with one. I thought about it all day and the name that kept coming up was Isabella. Whatdaya think guys?

Stacy told me that the folks at the vet where they had taken Isabella had said that she was bred to hunt bears in the Smokies, but that if the young dogs don't work out for some reason that they just let them go in the woods. Thank Dude that Stacy and Lloyd were in the right place at the right time! Thanks to them Isabella will have a happy home in Connecticut.

Along the Skyline and the Parkway there are a bunch of animals; Deer and fawns, bears, butterflies, birds, etc. and they all have the same reaction when they see a bike or a car, "Oh shit! Person!!" and they turn and run back into the woods. They are all pretty good at avoiding us. Today, however, I encountered a turtle on the road. I am sure that his reaction was the same as all the other animals, but…well…less running. So I turned around and went back. I told him matter-of-factly that he couldn't be there in the road, and that's when he ran…into his shell. I picked him up and put him well off the side of the road he was facing, I just hope it was the side he wanted to be on. Poor little guy must have been terrified.

For a meeting I decided on Boone, NC and pulled into town with plenty of time to get food and make it to a meeting, The meeting was in a church and I pulled into the parking lot and saw some folks standing outside smoking. Thinking that they were my people I asked them if there was a meeting nearby. Turns out that all three of them were drunk and attending a wedding reception, so they had no idea but they did point me in the right direction.

The meting was the Boone Group, and was a great bunch of folks. There was a brand new person there and it made for a wonderful meeting discussing in the basics and the benefits. It was a great reminder of why we are all here. Thanks, Boone Group!

After the meeting I found a wonderful little campground outside of town and got to take a shower, good thing too, because I was starting to smell myself…not good. It's much cooler here, and I am looking forward to a good night's sleep.

bowl with!?

Day 35 (It's already been 35 days!!) started by waking up in the cool morning at 3000 feet! What a terrific relief after waking up in the heat since…well…California.

I took my sweet time having breakfast and getting ready to go because I didn't have anywhere to be for the first time in a while, and the scenery was great:

At about noon I started the ride south down the Skyline toward Waynesboro. The ride was still stunning but it was a little hazy in the valleys so the overlooks weren't as beautiful as they could have been.

The daredevil butterflies were still around, and try as I might I couldn't get one to sit still for a photo. So we have to settle for a moth:

After a couple of hours on the road I dropped down into Waynesboro for some food and to sort out what meeting I would get to tonight. (No phone service on the Skyline.) My options for a meeting were sort of limited because I wanted to stay close to the Blue Ridge Parkway, so I decided on a 5:45 meeting in Roanoke, VA. I had to ride freeway to get there, but the early meeting would allow enough time to get back up into the hills to camp.

I arrived at the meeting right before 5:45 and saw a license plate that said: GRAT1TDE and I knew I was in the right place. I talked with a couple of guys out front for a minute and told them about the trip. One of them told me that about a year ago he had picked up a guy at the train station who was hiking the Appalachian Trail. He told me he had been walking for four months, and mostly alone the whole time. It made me grateful that I don't have to spend that much time in my head on this trip…I might very well go insane.

The meeting was called the New Hope Group and the topic was willingness. The room was packed and it was a fantastic meeting. I had a very warm reception as the visitor, and had a wonderful time, even if people did talk a lot about the treats that the birthday girl (Kirsten?) used to bring. Evidently this woman used to bring not only brownies and cookies, but homemade French pastries and such! After the meeting I was assured that if I called ahead they could guarantee treats. Thanks, New Hope Group!

I asked around a bit after the meeting for a good place to eat and although I probably should have gone for something healthier, the idea of the Texas Tavern was too good to pass up. John told me that it was a Roanoke tradition, and that it was the place that was always packed after midnight. My type of place.

So I found my way to the Texas Tavern and ordered a Cheesy Western and a Hot Dog. Like most similar joints the Tavern has it's own lingo. Chuck, who sat next to me and said he had been eating there since he was "knee-high to a grasshopper", ordered and "bowl with" and a "dog with." When his food was delivered I pieced things together and established that it was a bowl of chili with onions (and he mixed in mustard!) and a hot dog with chili (at least I think that's what that with was for…).

I won't lie and tell you that it was a gourmet meal, but it was pretty awesome. The coolest part, though, was talking to Chuck about the place. The Tavern has been around since 1930 and had the same decor and same menu. Even the steel pipe foot rails under the bar are worn down from people's feet. They're open all day, every day, except Christmas, and they always have a steady crowd. There's only 8 stools to sit on and not much more space than that, and the cook can keep up with a full house on a 3' by 4' grill and two gas burners. I don't know how they do it, but it's amazing. If you ever get to Roanoke go find the Texas Tavern! Thanks for the recommendation, John!

Meandering the skyline

Well, we've rounded out the 7000 mile point on the trip, and that meant that we were a little overdue for an oil change so I hooked up with George in Manassas, VA today to get that done. It was hot as hell getting out of DC and the drivers there are easily the worst I have ever encountered. I was tense and exhausted from riding just 30 miles to get out of the city to George's shop. When I arrived at his place I was immediately grateful that he had air conditioning. It gave me a nice opportunity to sit back and relax my body a bit.

It turns out that George worked for BMW dealerships for quite some time and has only very recently opened his own shop. (His benches aren't even 100% set up yet.) We got to chatting a bit while he worked and talked about why each of us had left our respective corporate jobs. It turns out that we share a lot of the same angst toward the politics of big business.

We talked a lot about bikes, obviously, and about what breaks on them, and the camp of riders who believe that because it's a BMW it should never break. Now, don't get me wrong, I bought my bike because it is incredibly reliable, but they are all machines, and therefore, break. To quote George, "If it's made by man it will break. If it's made by God it will die." Well said my fellow angsty friend.

After the oil change I headed to Front Royal where I took a left onto the Skyline Drive. Pardon my french, but Holy Shit, what a beautiful road!!

Even with a (mostly) obeyed 35mph speed limit it is damn fun, and because I got on it at 4pm there was very little traffic to contend with. I rode the first 30 miles or so and then dropped down to the west and into Luray, VA for dinner and a meeting.

I tracked down the church where the meeting was and found a little spot across the street for dinner. As I walked into the Artisan's Grill I noticed a sign on the door saying that they had live music on Wednesday nights from 7 - 9. Unfortunately, the meeting was at 7 so I would miss it.

I did, however, get to chat with Hector, one of the musicians, while I ate. Hector is a local guy, but wasn't always. He had a Latin accent of some kind, and mentioned playing in a Mexican band in L.A., but I never did find out where he was from. He did tell me that he had lived in Cincinnati for a long time and that after being in Luray for a while had decided that small town life suits him much better.

Hector and I also talked a bit about the lost art of the postcard, what with email and cell phones and all of that. I guess I am not one to talk given that I have not sent a single postcard on the trip, but I sort of wish that I did. As I was leaving he yelled to me across the place to send him a postcard later in the trip, and if I think of it I most certainly will.

So I was fed and had mingled a bit with the locals so it was time for a meeting. I walked into the church and asked if there was a meeting. The church folks informed me that there hadn't been a meeting there for some time, and they were unsure about where it might be. They told me about another church to try, so I did, and nothing. I made some phone calls and came up empty and at 7:40 decided that today was another missed meeting (not for lack of trying) and it was time to go set up camp. I was bummed, but it is bound to happen now and again, and I am grateful that it is a rare thing to not find a meeting where I go.

So I rode back up to the Skyline (and 15 degree cooler temperatures) and rode a little farther south to Big Meadows campground. Along the way it was getting toward sunset so I stopped to look.

As the sun sank lower the deer started to come out and line the road for miles. I slowed to about 25mph and avoided any close calls.

After setting up camp, in the daylight for a change,:

I wandered over to talk to Ted, a fellow biker from Wisconsin. He let me know about the parts of the Blue Ridge Parkway to avoid because of traffic or boring scenery. He also asked if I had any booze with me and I choked back the laughter because he wouldn't understand, and politely told him that I didn't. We had a nice little talk and it made me grateful that I am not drinking myself to sleep tonight.

After I took a shower I was leaving the shower area and noticed two siblings, a big sister and a little brother. The big sister was trying very hard to get her brother to play a game of some kind and the little brother kept yelling, "I don't wanna!" It made me smile and remember how nice it is that Alison and I have grown out of that…mostly.

Tourist free DC

Tim and I slept in late and had a nice mellow morning with coffee on the front porch.

After we felt sufficiently caffeinated we met up with Tim's brother, Dan, to go to lunch at Wagshel's deli. It turns out that Wagshel's has the best reuben I have ever eaten. It was incredible!

Dan also decided that he needed to try a hot and sour tomato from the bin in front of the counter. It was a green tomato that had been pickled in something. We all tried it and collectively decided that it wasn't terrible, but it was certainly strange. I don't have any idea what possess someone to eat them.

We took our lunch to Battery Kemble Park in DC and I had a hard time believing that we were still in the city. We walked down a dirt trail off a side street and into the woods and the next thing I knew we were in what looked like a mountain meadow with no indication of the city at all. I find it impressive that the city planners could accomplish this so many years ago!

We wandered the park a bit and I was struck by the number of butterflies in DC, and big one's too.

After lunch in the park we had a mellow afternoon around the house and at about 6pm I called Keith, a guy I'd met at the meeting the night before, and asked him for a ride to a meeting. He was running late, but was more than happy to swing by and get me.

I didn't catch the name of the meeting, but it was a men's meeting in a church basement, classic. It was the first men's meeting I had been to since leaving Seattle, and it felt good to be in a room with a bunch of guys who are OK with having feelings. Thanks, guys!

On the ride home from the meeting Keith and I had a nice talk about how we make this program work in our daily lives. I always like talking with someone about how it's made our day-to-day easier and more serene. It reminds me that it really works. Thanks, Keith!

When I got back to the house TIm and I got some dinner and had a good chance to talk about how life is for us these days. It was great to find out about where Tim is and hear that he is settling into life here in DC. I also got to brag a bit about my relationship with Mandy again, something that I love to do, especially after our little visit in New York. Our time together there showed me that what we have really is precious and I am a very lucky man! Thanks for everything, Tim!

Impending rain

Last night I arrived at the campground in Snow Shoe, PA late at night and had to ask someone if there was a spot for me to set up my tent. Luckily, the woman who runs the place was in front of the trailer where I had stopped to ask. She walked me to her trailer, got my info, and told me where to go. It was $10 for the night, but I only had a twenty and she had no change. I told her that it was fine if she just let the next guy stay for free. She thought that was nice, but said she would see what she could do in the morning.

I slept well and woke up early to get all packed and ready to go. When I was in the bathroom brushing my teeth an old man came in and started talking to me. It turns out he is the husband of the woman from last night and they have been running the campground for twenty or so years.

We were standing in front of the bathroom talking about the weather on the trip and I heard, "Do you want your ten dollars, honey?"

I shrugged and said, "Sure."

"Well, come on over and get it then," she said waving me over and turning back to go into the trailer.

I started to walk over and the old man followed, still talking. When I got to the trailer she handed me the money and said, "Money is money when you're traveling."

After I got my money they both continued to tell me all the stories about accidents that happen on the Interstate right nearby. They seemed especially interested in telling me about all the motorcycle accidents. (I'm still not sure I understand why everyone wants to tell the guy on the motorcycle about all the people they know who have been in motorcycle accidents…)

During our conversation a little black cat, Peanut, came up and started yelling at us for something. I put my hand out for him to come over and say "hi" and I was told that he doesn't like anyone but them. But within a couple of minutes Peanut was rubbing at my legs and let me pet him. I guess there is just something about me that attracts cats.

So I left Snow Shoe destined for Washington, DC to see my good friend Tim. I set the GPS to avoid Interstates and off I went.

After about an hour I was riding on US 322 along side the Juniata River. The valley was beautiful, and I stopped at a little wayside to get a closer look.

While wandering the parking lot for a stretch I met Mark, a fellow motorcyclist currently confined to a car for a business trip. He, like all other riders, expressed his jealously, but also had an interesting bit of trivia about the roads in rural Pennsylvania.

Evidently, the Amish wear ruts into the road with the wheels from their carts, and then the horses hooves polish the hump in between the ruts to a smooth finish. The result, for a motorcycle in the rain, is a slick hump that the bike won't stay on and ruts full of water on either side. Mark rides a cruiser and explained that he just put a car tire with rain tread on the rear of his bike so that he could stay alive in the rain.

Just after leaving the wayside on the Juniata I stopped in Mifflintown to refill water and go to the bathroom. While getting ready to leave again I saw an Amish man pull in and park his cart. I asked if I could take a photo because the irony killed me.

He asked if I was traveling far and I explained the trip. He didn't say much after that, but wished me a safe journey. When I was leaving the station he was back in his cart and watched me leave with the fascinated gaze of a child, as though he had never thought much about getting out of the area he lived in. I felt sort of sad for him at that moment and I hope that he finds whatever it is that he needs to satisfy the curiosity I saw in his eyes.

After Mifflintown I took a left onto PA 74 and was immediately ecstatic about the road the GPS had chosen for me. It had wonderful switchbacks and was tremendously fun to ride, unfortunately it started to rain about half way across the mountains, and all I could think about was what Mark had said about sliding off the hump and hydroplaning - that took a lot of the fun out of it.

After the rain started it mostly drizzled the whole day and I was chasing the storm and it kept looking like it was going to pour on me so I kept my rain gear on. The result was that it never really rained on me and by the time I pulled into DC I was sitting in a puddle of sweat inside my rain gear. Damn Mother Nature sometimes!

As soon as I got to Tim's house it was time to turn around and head back out to a meeting. Luckily Cory, Tim's sister-in-law, was already going to a meeting and came by the house to pick me up so I didn't have to get on the bike again.

The meeting was the Camel Group and the format was a few short speakers at the beginning, followed by a break and then a 30 minute speaker. The stories were good, and it was sort of nice to be able to sit back and not have to share for a change. Thanks, Cory!

After the meeting Tim and I got to just hang out and laugh like old times. It's good to be with a best friend!

Fluffy Forest

Today started out a little strange. I woke up around 8:20 and immediately wondered if my girl was getting on a plane in Atlanta. So, I got dressed and went out for a smoke and call Mandy.

I was relieved to hear that she had slept a few hours on a bench in the airport and she was about to board her plane in spite of the fact that the first class ticket they had given her the night before was for a different person and had been torn up when she tried to use it. (Who runs these things, really?!) She told me later that when she got on the plane one of the other passengers had said, "Oh good, she got on!" That would have been a nice thing to hear after feeling so alone in the airport all night.

In my relief I went back to bed to lay down for a bit, and thought to myself, "Maybe I should just stay up and…" and, well, the next thing I knew it was noon. I guess I needed the sleep.

I got up, made some coffee, and started to wake up. I knew that I wanted to get to a specific town in Pennsylvania today, but I was a little worried given my unintended late start, but for some reason I didn't panic. I just took my time getting things together, talked with Angie and Ryan, and finally left around 3pm. (By the way, Angie is Mandy's best friend, and Ryan is her boyfriend. That's where they come in to this whole thing. And I want to thank them for the incredible hospitality, it was like being at home on the other side of the country.)

So I got on the road again headed south. Once I got out of town I noticed only one thing - Mandy wasn't there. I couldn't reach down and squeeze her calf to say "hello", and her arms never wrapped around me going into a corner. I was missing her terribly already!

As I continued on the sadness didn't go away, but I did get distracted by the change in scenery approaching the state line. The road started to get more narrow and twisty, and the forest thickened all around. I have never seen a forest as dense as what I rode through today. It was amazing. I got one photo that sort of shows what I saw:

The best way I can think to describe the real-life look of it is to liken it to a well-manicured juniper bush. You know, the ones that look like they would be nice and soft to roll around on? Only it was entire hillsides that looked like a giant, green, fluffy pillow. And where the woods met the road looked like walls had been cut out. When I looked to the side into the forest I was lucky to see twenty feet in. Incredible!

Through northern Pennsylvania there were still several small towns, (They call them hamlets, villages and townships out here) and beautiful old brick buildings to look at. I stopped for gas in Ridgway, PA and talked for a minute with a couple of guys on Harleys. When I told them I was from Seattle one of them said, "What the hell are you doing in Ridgway. Pennsylvania?"

I responded, "Just going for a little cruise."

We all had a good chuckle and I told them about the trip. They admired my bike, and made sure to tell just how envious they were, repeatedly.

Shortly after Ridgway I was forced onto I-80 for about 30 miles, and they were long miles. I had forgotten what it was like to battle with the trucks and other cars because Mandy and I had done such a good job staying on little country roads in New York. The only highlight was that I got to chuckle at the "highest point on I-80 east of the Mississippi - 2250 ft". That was a good laugh given the 9000 foot passes I crossed to get out of California.

I was, however, happy that I had gotten on I-80 because I pulled in to Snow Shoe, PA just in time for the 8 o'clock meeting. I had seen Snow Show ion the map yesterday and knew that I had to get to that meeting if I could, and I was pleased that I did.

The meeting was full of laughter and fun, and the topic was being stuck in our own heads (they called it camping out in their heads…) What a perfect topic for me to hear about again. As always, the solution we discussed was a combination of prayer, meetings, getting busy with something, and working with someone else. Thanks for the reminder, Snow Shoe!